Cinnamon Club owner Vivek Singh does small-plates all-day Indian dining at his newest venture and it’s quite unspectacular
- Double cooked pork belly ‘Koorg’ style
Vivek Singh, chef at parliamentary hangout Cinnamon Kitchen and younger sibling Cinnamon Soho, has finally jumped on to the all-day Indian small plates bandwagon. Unfortunately, the food is much like at his other restaurants – uninspired, unremarkable and unmemorable. Don’t get me wrong – Vivek Singh is probably one of the pioneers of contemporary Indian cuisine in London and has been bringing easy-to-palate Indian cooking revamped to fine dining status to well heeled Britishers for almost two decades. And we should thank him for that. However, in today’s London, his cooking is irrelevant. London doesn’t require a watered down version of Indian food. With the likes of restaurants such as Gymkhana, Hoppers, Kricket, Talli Joe, Dishoom and co, tastes have expanded and Londoners demand more.
The prawn pepper fry had so little to do with South Indian cuisine, if I didn’t know it was a pepper fry, I would never have guessed. The Chaats were average at best being a much blander tomato-ed version of the tangy and spicy street food equivalents in India. The lamb Galauti was lacking in complexity of spice (and could contemporary Indian restaurants please stop pairing everything with Pomegranate!). The only saving grace of the meal was the Koorg style pork belly. The drinks menu however seemed interesting and had a number of concoctions by Mr Lyan.
There is probably a market for Cinnamon Bazaar with those more unfamiliar with Indian cuisine but I’d rather spend my money somewhere else.
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