Meat galore at this cavernous new smoking hot spot in Soho
- Aged cheeseburger
- Sunday roast – selection of grilled and smoked cuts
Broccoli, carrots, cauliflower cheese, beef fat roast potatoes, smoked bone
marrow, Yorkshire pudding and gravy
Neil Rankin (of Smokehouse fame) opened this mod-cavernous meat spectacle in Soho at the end of last year. And, boy is it good! On arrival you descend in to a massive central meat smoking pit lined by bar stools for the couples and tables for the larger groups. The decor, if you can look away from the mammoth chunks of meat being grilled over embers, is modern and almost Nordic in style, in contrast to the machismo and smoke enveloping the space.
The menu starts with tacos, on point with London’s top 2016 food fads. The tacos are oozing with charcoaled meat fats and flavoursome sauces spanning the globe from Piri-Piri to Soy-glaze. But the main event is the ‘chopped, smoked and grilled’ section. These can be ordered in 100g portions and includes the whole gamut – beef, pork, lamb, goat and some more unusual choices such as Thai larb and mutton sausages. Unlike other meat restaurants in London, a variety of cuts are served even when you order small portions.
Tequila is the main focus of the drinks menu. The wine list is succinct but adequate, and importantly, is much better value for money than comparable restaurants (Zelman Meats springs to mind).
On a second visit, we tried the Sunday Roast. It’s the largest of the servings I’ve had at the updated takes on roast in London and includes cuts of all the main meats. It’s hearty and good bang for your back under £20 but lacks some of the excitement that dinner here entails.
If you’re a carnivore, this is probably the hottest choice in London right now. Just remember to book a table!
25 Broadwick St, Soho, London W1F
T +44 (0)20 3879 3834