Famed Spanish chef David Muñoz’s first London outing, StreetXo, is unnecessarily flamboyant and ludicrously priced
- Pekinese dumpling
Cruncy pig’s ear, strawberry hoisin, Ali-oli and pickles
- Steamed club sandwich
Suckling pig, ricotta, quail’s egg and chilli mayo
StreetXo, by famed 3* Spanish chef David Muñoz, has finally opened its doors in London after years of delays. It’s the casual street sister of DiverXo in Madrid (#79 on San Pellegrino’s World’s Best Restaurants list). Whereas StreetXo in Madrid is located in a shopping mall food court, in London it is located in smart, if tacky surroundings with requisite exposed air ducts and prices to boot. If you have read Fay Maschler’s review of this place, you already know how little she thought of the place. Whilst I can’t quite say I quite despised the restaurant as much as she did, at over £100 per person with drinks, the restaurant is a caricature of innovative gastronomy – theatre for shock value with a poor script and cast. I’m left feeling confused as to what the point of all the waiters in straitjackets and people drinking cocktails out of wine glasses larger than them really is. And, while this isn’t a criticism limited to StreetXo, “Plates will be brought out when they’re ready” is particularly offensive when you’re charging more than some of the best fine-dining restaurants in London.
Having said that, where I must differ with Fay is that a small subset of the menu is actually innovative and tasty. That’s not to say it all works, but some of it definitely does. Take for example the Club Sandwich – a steamed bun with suckling pig, ricotta chilli mayonnaise and a fried quail egg on top. Surprisingly good pairings. Other items such as the Pork Bo Ssam are an absolute fail. Anyone with an appreciation of Korean cuisine will see this as a basterdised alternative to the original. Similarly, the Har Gau paired with Strawberry, as much of a work of art as it may be, is a substandard dumpling with better alternatives available at a fraction of the cost in London.
Overall, it was an interesting experience. Once. Would I try it again? No. Would I recommend it at its current price tag? Absolutely not.
15 Old Burlington St, Mayfair, London W1S
T +44 (0)20 3096 7555