Surprisingly authentic and affordable Tamil restaurant in Soho
- Bonemarrow Varuval
- Black pork curry with Hoppers
Coriander Chutney, Tomato Chutney, Coconut Chutney
- Lamb Kothu Roti
Owned by the Sethi brothers (of Gymkhana, Bubbledogs and Bao fame), this small Soho space serves up dishes inspired by Sri-Lanka and Tamil Nadu (a coastal South Indian state). While there have always been a handful of South Indian restaurants in London, Hoppers is the first mainstream restaurant cooking Sri-Lankan food. The other distinction being the updated surroundings and concept more akin to pseudo-hipstery London complete with requisite vintage posters, a Time Out clientele and no reservations.
The menu is short but the food is bold, tasty and packs a punch. The Bone-marrow Varuval is probably one of the tastiest dishes in London right now and is great mopped up with what is described as Roti, but is more a Malabar Paratha. The hoppers, or Appams as they are known in India, are by far the best I’ve had this side of the world. The Dosas are unfortunately a bit more variable, being perfectly moist and crispy on occasion and being soggy on others. As with a lot of South Asian restaurants, wine is limited but there a number of interesting Gin based cocktails to make up for it.
Overall, the food is excellent and the price extremely affordable for Soho. If you can brave the long wait that sometimes runs up to a number of hours (thankfully you don’t need to wait in line as they inform you when the table is ready via text), go get your hands dirty!
49 Frith St, Soho, London W1D 4SG