Affordability doesn’t imply compromising on quality at this Soho steakhouse
- Sliced Picanha
Russian entrepreneur Mikhail Zelman is one of the most successful restauranteurs operating in London today with Goodman’s and Burger & Lobster. In fact, Burger & Lobster with its affordable lobster for the masses formula (who gets the overpriced mediocre burgers here?) is so successful that there are now twelve branches in London, some as little as half a mile apart, and another seven in the UK and beyond.
Goodman’s is easily one of the best steak restaurants in London rivalled only by Hawksmoor, but it is firmly focussed on the high-end diner. In comparison, Zelman Meats feels surprisingly affordable for the quality of meat and given its central location. So much so that it makes me think its cross-subsidised by Goodman’s. The menu is simple: two cuts of beef – Chateaubriand and Pichana; smoked short rib and brisket. The Chateaubriand is tender, flavourful, smoky on the outside and perfectly pink inside. Pichana, an extremely popular cut in Brazil, has the thin layer of fat on the outside perfectly crisped up without overcooking the meat. Sauces are limited but the Holy Fuck mayo packs quite a punch.
The ambiance is upscale dark American diner with leather booths dominating most of the space. While the meat is extremely reasonable, the wine list is less so with markups quite high given the intended vibe and clientele. I guess they’ve got to make their money somewhere! If you’re after an affordable excellent steak dinner Zelman’s is hard to beat except if you plan on drinking a lot of wine, in which case Monday wine clubs at Hawksmoor has my vote (£5 corkage per bottle).
2 St Anne’s Ct, Soho, London W1F 0AZ
T +44 (0)20 7437 0566